The Bold and the Beautiful Sides of Cape Jervis
There’s a lovely feel to South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula. Its underlying demeanour is raw and untamed, defined by rolling hills and valleys smattered with coastal scrub. The Fleurieu is bordered by steep hillsides and cliffs that drop quickly into the wilds of the Southern Ocean and the lower St Vincent’s Gulf, creating a spectacle of rugged grandeur.
There are secluded surf beaches, rocky outcrops, and protected swimming havens with crisp white sand to enjoy. You can feast on gourmet food and wine, especially from the nearby McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek wineries, or maybe a round of golf in the array of clubs, links and resorts. Maybe a challenging motor bike or horse ride, quaint villages with endless galleries, antique and knick-knack stores are more your thing, and then explore the region's historic mines, ruins, architecture and clifftop National Parks with boundless views and wildlife. Yet for me, the greatest attraction is the endless variety of boating and aquatic sports on tap in this magnificent marine playground.
The Fleurieu Peninsula offers a great variety of accommodation from the larger townships of Goolwa, Victor Harbour, Port Elliot, Normanville, Strathalbyn and Yankalilla, or even the gulfside beaches of Carrickalinga. It offers the vast waterways of the mammoth Lake Alexandrina leading down to the Coorong with its water skiing, boarding, fishing and sailing adventures. There are marinas at Hindmarsh Island and Wirrina Cove with Marina St Vincent links and resorts.
Should you prefer to camp there are secluded bush and coastal settings in the beautiful Deep Creek and Talisker Conservation Park and every kind of caravan park including the quaint Rapid Bay and Second Valley facilities set on safe gulfside beaches. The Fleurieu offers a plethora of formal holiday parks in the major townships, plus there’s Airbnb’s, homestead stays, hospitable bed and breakfasts and plenty of holiday rental accommodation for all tastes and budgets.
Wild Waters at The Cape
Rolling down the long bald hill to the small coastal town of Cape Jervis epitomises the Fleurieu Peninsula and its gateway to adventure. “The Cape” is the jumping off point to the beautiful Kangaroo Island, which is separated from the mainland by the mighty Backstairs Passage. This is a beautiful but bold body of water where St Vincent’s Gulf empties to the Southern Ocean on the eastern edge of KI. (Local slang for Kangaroo Island)
The large wind farm on the top of the big bald hill says it all. Whatever the forecast wind strength, you can generally double it at the infamous Cape Jervis. The currents run strong, oxygenating the productive waters where an abundance of marine life, including Southern Bluefin Tuna, all manner of sharks, big red snapper, whiting and a sensational squid fishery, all call home. The coastal fringes have mostly deep, clear blue water with steep cliffs and rolling hills dropping to all manner of reefs, interspersed with both black and white sandy beaches.
The Cape offers magnificent diving experiences, from basic snorkelling to the more experienced deep water offshore and wreck locations. It also offers an array of spearfishing and Marine Park experiences, plus an abundance of precious abalone and crayfish for the taking.
A Seaside Township with a Bustling Harbour
The seaside village of Cape Jervis had a full-time population of 343 residents in the 2021 census. It is only 88 km, or a bit over an hour’s drive from Adelaide, making it extremely accessible even if flying in from commercial airlines to the State’s capital. Most residents are engaged in tourism through various forms of accommodation, the Sealink vehicle and passenger ferry that runs regularly to KI, or commercial fishing and recreational charters. There’s a hospitable pub (say gidday to Phil the proprietor) and a general store with petrol and diesel, and both serve good food. (Tell Cathy in the store that Bear sent ya for a burger!)
The township rolls out down the length of the great hillside, eventually running to the small enclosed harbour with its dual lane public boat ramp and the ferry terminal. The boat ramp does cop a bit of swell in the right conditions, and you must give way to the ferry that turns within the harbour, so beware and give it plenty of space. There is surf and beach access to the beautiful Morgan’s Beach to the north, or Fisheries Beach to the south, complete with the remains of an old whaling station. Surfers may like to head back to Waitpinga Beach and take your rod with you! Don’t forget that the mighty mulloway infests many shore-based Fleurieu locations, as do the popular squid, tommy ruff, Australian salmon, gummy sharks and garfish. If you’re a pier rat, the long jetty at nearby Rapid Bay is always a great starting point, but the rock walls and jetties of the Cape itself are mighty productive.
Boating in Cape Jervis
I can’t emphasise safety strongly enough, as the Cape Jervis/Backstairs Passage waters are often wild. However, they more often show their gentle side, and you can start fishing the moment you leave the harbour.
Understanding wind and tide are key factors in fishing "The Cape". The passage may be quite calm and fishable even in the smallest trailer boat when wind and tide are in the same direction, but the proverbial hits the fan quickly when she swings. My good friend Gary Lloyd from Fleurieu Charters advises me to look at the tide charts for Adelaide’s Outer Harbour to predict the actual flow and slack water. It will vary considerably from the published tide changes at the Cape itself, as it takes an average of up to 2 hours for the high volume of water flowing in and out of the gulf to come to equilibrium.
Chartering is a terrific idea, even for experienced boaties. There’s a fair bit to learn about the fishery with so much to target in many locations. Gary Lloyd is a second-generation commercial fisherman who turned his business to recreational chartering many years ago. Gary and his other skipper, Ben Shannon, know the Cape better than anyone and will be your best instructors. They run a fleet of boats with a pair of Clayton Marine fibreglass 32 and 34 footers plus a 30’ Young Fishrunner alloy and a pair of 20’ Nerius craft for more commercial activity. Let’s just say I’ve never been disappointed with Gary and Ben in some 20 years of visits.
A Catch for Every Angler
Close to shore, you can chase squid, tommies, gar, snook, pike, and whiting, but you just never know when the unexpected arrival of a yellowtail kingfish, mulloway, or shark may surprise you. The squid and salmon fishery can be phenomenal, especially when the water is clear. Numerous local professional boats chase the prized catch. You will know the pro squid boats instantly—most of them are black with ink!
It’s only a few kilometres to the prolific snapper grounds on the deeper channel edges. The snapper fishery was once legendary with fish to 13kg being a regular occurrence. However, times have changed recently, and the numbers seem to have declined even with the closure of the fishery for the spawning season and the introduction of a vast segment of marine parks!
However, a good number of fish are still available, so be careful with bag limits and closures. It’s worth a drift over likely structure on the slowing tides in 25 to 40 m, or maybe drop anchor on a patch of fish after sounding them up. You will regularly find both gummy and school sharks on similar ground, and the waters are renowned for the larger toothy varieties, including monster great whites.
Don’t be surprised if an XXL whiting engulfs your snapper baits! We have caught them in numbers even in waters of 30 metres and more. Across the strait, KI’s American River and Emu Bay are legendary for their wonderful whiting.
The return of Southern Bluefin Tuna to our south-east Australian waters has been nothing short of miraculous in recent times. This fishery has bloomed in huge numbers, reversing what was all but decimation during the late 1980s and 1990s. These magnificent pelagic power-houses have been arriving in the Cape Jervis area as early as mid-December and run right through into the winter months. We recently caught our first SBT within 1km of the boat ramp and chased many schools right out to sea. The average size in the region seems to be between 10 and 25kg; however, I’ll bet my family jewels that larger fish are under the surface feeding youngsters.
Rustic Charm at The Station
We were treated to the country style hospitality of Anthony and Sally Miles and the friendly staff at Cape Jervis Accommodation and Caravan Park, or as locals refer to “The Station”.
The Station dates back to the late 1830’s when it began farming sheep on what was approximately 4500 acres. The current property still features the original buildings and an array of cottages and units dating throughout the 195-year history. There’s a converted railway carriage, the Homestead, the “Cottage”, renovated shearers quarters, newer homes and units and beautiful tree-lined gardens all with an attractive “rustic” feel. The Station has a developing caravan park with views over the hillside rolling down the Cape. There are powered and unpowered sites, clear or shaded camps, separate men’s and women’s facilities with hot showers, and even a laundromat and enclosed communal kitchen. Many travellers use “The Station” as an overnight stopping point before boarding the KI ferry.
Bird lovers don’t have to leave the confines, with many species, including a huge population of noisy corellas. There’s a camp shop with all of the essentials (including ice cream!), a TV and recreation room, and you must take the time to enjoy a sumptuous home-cooked meal at the “Pear Tree” restaurant.
Adventures Beyond Fishing at The Cape
It doesn’t have to be a dedicated fishing trip that brings you to The Cape. There’s something here for just about everyone. It’s worth taking the time to inspect the historic Talisker Mine, Leonard’s Mill, the Second Valley seawall and jetty, and there are some terrific bush and beach walks including Cape Jervis being the starting point for the Heysen Trail, a walking track of 1,200 kilometres which finishes at Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges.
And don’t forget to treat the family to the “Swim With Tuna” in-sea aquarium tourist attraction at nearby Victor Harbour. It’s a must for all age groups. If you can don a wetsuit and float around in an enclosed sea pen, then you can do it! You actually get to hand-feed the mighty Southern Bluefin Tuna in a safe underwater playground.
But you will really enjoy the fishing……………………………
Ready to Set Sail?
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