Boating On The Yarra River
Who can forget the rhythm of the Talking Heads classic song “Take Me to the River?” Melbourne’s Yarra River is the heart of the city, and it, too, pumps out a pulse that can take you through a promenade of wonderful experiences when you take a voyage of exploration.
They say that you have never seen a place until you have seen it by water. I’d have to agree wholeheartedly. Sometimes, a cruise through your backyard waterway can be a delightful surprise. The boating opportunities around Melbourne are improving, and more safe harbours and canal developments are being built daily. However, the real surprise is a tour up our famous, or infamous, Yarra River.

Urban legend has it that the name Yarra is an aboriginal word for a river that flows upside down, meaning that the mud flows on top. In reality, recent history tells us that the term means “ever flowing.” I’ll stick with the legend, thanks—right or wrong, it's better fun.
The Yarra has its beginnings high in the foothills of the Great Dividing Range and broadens as it meanders through the beautiful Yarra Valley and its world-famous wine district. It's a highly managed catchment contributing to Melbourne’s water supply via the Upper Yarra Dam. Its headwaters have their beginnings around the Mt Baw Baw Alpine Village, where it gathers momentum through a series of National Parks, highly managed rainforest and temperate forest zones before it develops into a broader river around the magnificent Don Valley, and its fringe town of Warburton, some 70 odd km from the CBD. This is where rural and urban development begin to intersect.
Whilst the Upper Yarra presents some terrific sweetwater opportunities for very small craft such as kayaks, the other end of the Yarra is of most significant interest to powerboat operators and the opportunities that unfold. The river is navigable by trailer boats from its mouth at the top end of Port Phillip Bay, all the way to the Yarra Bend Park and the beautiful Studley Park, height permitting, under the many bridges.
Oops, Detour - The Maribyrnong!

Race goers and anglers often detour up the historic Maribyrnong River through the heavily industrialised suburbs of Yarraville and Footscray, especially on Melbourne Cup Day at Flemington Racecourse. The formal attire procession often gets messy whilst boarding a craft from the bow after one or more too many champagnes. It is truly a celebration of the nation that has to be seen from the river! The Maribyrnong is worthy of a story on its own. Bream anglers ply their trade from complicated sports fishing machines, whilst mum, dad and the kids chuck out a line from the banks of one of the many riverside parks whilst enjoying a family barbeque. Then there is the magnificent beer garden at the Anglers Tavern further upstream at the suburb of Maribyrnong, but that’s where my story gets a little messy!

Let's get back to the Yarra, shall we? The river was the basis for the establishment of Melbourne as a major development in 1835, when it provided shelter and (at the time) drinking water for the crew of the first European pioneers on board the Enterprize. The site is commemorated as Enterprize Park and is deep in the heart of the city, near the bustling corner of Williams and Flinders Streets and directly across from the Crown Casino and Entertainment Complex.
Yarra River Cruises in Your Own Private Boat
Whilst you can access the Yarra from the top end of Port Phillip, (called Hobson's Bay) by utilising your local boat ramp or marina as a staging point, I prefer to drive to the “Warmies” Boat ramp at Newport where the Hobson's Bay City Council run a recently upgraded, multi-lane facility complete with good parking, toilet facilities, and floating pontoons for loading your boat all located in a parkland setting. You cannot miss it; head for the massive chimney on the Newport Power Station. The little waterway that runs up to the power station is very popular as a land-based angling destination. The warmed discharge from the plants' cooling attracts various species, including tailor, bream and mulloway.

Another Detour!
You enter the river close to Williamstown and its vast past and present maritime history. If you have time, take a detour through the moorings to destinations such as the “Anchorage” Marina and restaurant, the Royal Yacht Club, the busy ferry and cruise boat terminal at Gem Pier and the flamboyance of the Ferguson Street and Nelson Place traders and their fine food extravaganzas. Ah, the latte, garlic and Sauvignon Blanc – I can smell it now! Maybe this is best for another day out.
Back to the River yet again! The “Scienceworks Museum” jetty is to the west, and the container port of Webbe Dock is to the east, just before the majestic West Gate Bridge looms supreme. It sends a shiver up your spine as you pass beneath the lengthy grey testimony to development, especially for me as I vividly remember the day way back in 1970 when I stood with my schoolmates on the opposite riverbank, watching as it fell during construction, taking 35 workers to their untimely and gloomy deaths, haunting to say the least.

The river's mood changes as you settle into a maximum cruising pace of 5 knots and start entering the actual Port district. The massive orange cranes look like armies of mechanical beasts from a Star Wars battle scene. There is craft of all shapes and sizes, and you will feel dwarfed and insignificant next to the super tankers and container ships loading and unloading their goods throughout the river, particularly at Swanson, Appleton, Holden and Victoria Docks. Pier 35 provides an upmarket marina for many of the city's wealthy boat owners. It has docks for some of the largest recreational craft, and a stack storage that suits many smaller craft owners from the vast array of surrounding high-rise, river and bayside development.

The timber wharfs that line the Yarra throughout the Port district are a monument to the old hands who built them and a reminder of the timber that was available at the time of construction around the turn of the last century. They also supply vital habitat to the resident marine species, such as huge bream and mulloway. These residents are constantly stalked by an ever-increasing array of keen anglers chucking soft and hard-bodied lures amongst the structure. A word of warning, though, there are health warnings on the consumption of these fish, so care is needed.

The Bolte Bridge frames the approaches to the centre of downtown Melbourne, and a detour to the left takes you into the ultra-modern development of Victoria Harbour, with Marvel Stadium (formerly Etihad Stadium & Telstra Dome), or whatever they call it nowadays) being the focal point. There are plenty of public and private moorings for this thriving inner city, multi story residential and commercial development, and you can knock yourself out playing ‘yuppie” on the boardwalk café’s and bars. There is usually a band playing on the common and plenty of cosmopolitan sights, smells and sounds in this inner city hub.

Mind Your Head!
The upper boundary for many larger craft is just around the corner and back into the river. The old Charles Grimes Bridge separates Montague Street to the south from Warundjeri Way to the north, is approximately 7.5 km from the mouth and only allows a maximum clearance of 3.91 metres at low tide and 3.31 metres at high tide at average flow levels.
If you can make it under the Charles Grimes, you will find the next few kilometres an absolute wonderland of hi-tech sculpture combined with highly imaginative architecture crossing over to historic opulence and craftsmanship. The area is truly breathtaking as you look up at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre, the Melbourne Aquarium, the Polly Woodside, the Convention Centre, Southgate Plaza, the Melbourne Concert Hall, Crown Casino, Batman Park, Spencer, Kings and Queens bridges, offices, shops, restaurants and a complete modern metropolis. The railway has always been a vital link for the city, and you pass the redeveloped Southern Cross Station before the amphitheatre between the bridges, giving way to Flinders Street Station's majestic history. You could spend a month visiting these attractions, yet time stands still in a surreal setting when you pass through it by water.

You will marvel at the array of architecture, resulting from over 150 years of development, particularly the many bridges in this area. The Princess Bridge is where the busy St Kilda Road feeds into the CBD through Swanston Street, and the city centre is at the quirky Federation Square.

Autumn Leaves and Green Grassy Banks
Heading further upstream, CBD development meets the “Garden State” with the remarkable parklands of the Alexandra Gardens, the King's Domain, the Royal Botanic Gardens and Birrarung Marr.
A crisp, clear Autumn day is a great time to visit, when the leaves on the trees are turning the wonderful shades of reds, ochres and browns, and the grass is a rich, deep green. The wonders keep unfolding before your eyes with the “new age” design of Olympic Park and Melbourne Park heralding the concrete monstrosity of Citylink and the old Monash Freeway (often called the Monash Car Park due to the traffic congestion) Don’t forget to salute our internationally famous sports ground the MCG, the home of real football – Aussie Rules!

You can spend hours ambling up through the inner city suburbs, stopping at one of the riverside barbeque areas for a break and taking in the beauty of Burnley Gardens, the Scotch College Grounds, or maybe even a stopover at the ‘Sculpture Park” on the Parks Victoria managed Herring Island and Como Landing. Don’t get run over on the busy bicycle track adjacent to the river for many miles.
For most, Herring Island will just about mark the upper limit of a comfortable day out, remembering the time it takes for the return journey. Those with plenty of time, or overnight accommodation, can keep going for a further five or six odd kilometres, navigating the waters of some of Melbourne's oldest and most affluent suburbs of South Yarra, Toorak, Hawthorn and Kew. The voyage will take you past the rowing sheds of our town's elite schools, exquisitely presented Golf courses, churches and a wonderland of parks and reserves, all the way to Studley Park in Kew.

Most will find it challenging to complete the return trip in a day. It is a long voyage at 5 knots, and you will want to continually stop to take in the sights and ambience our beautiful town offers. A word of warning, rest stops are rare and you will want to enjoy a home-catered chicken and champagne lunch, or moor up for a while to enjoy some of the world’s finest cuisine.
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A cruise up Melbourne’s beautiful Yarra River is a fantastic day out for the whole family, and highly educational for kids and adults alike. It doesn’t matter whether you own a 12’ tinnie or a larger sports machine, sit back, take your time and enjoy all that our beautiful city has to offer by boat on the river that flows upside down!
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