Destination Port Lincoln: Shark Diving and So Much More
If I ever vanish into thin air, don't bother looking for me in Port Lincoln – I'll be in hiding in paradise!
Port Lincoln's transformation from a coastal village to a thriving port town with over 14,000 residents and a bustling tourism industry can be attributed to the exploration of the fishing industry in the 1950s and 60s. The historic MFV Tacoma, built over seven years in Port Fairy, Victoria, by the Haldane Brothers, has a special connection to the town, being destined for Port Lincoln.
They completed the long task and began catching Southern Bluefin Tuna (SBT) in the early 1950s, transforming the town. The Haldane family “had the sea in their blood” and blue gum splinters under their fingernails from their seagoing and boat-building heritage, and these were the beginnings of a nautical boom that put Port Lincoln on the map.
The 85-foot purse seiner, built to haul in 200 tonnes of fish, was a behemoth of its time. It was capable of venturing 1000 miles into the Antarctic and the remote waters of the Great Australian Bight, and was designed to catch everything from Southern Bluefin Tuna to pilchards, salmon, and sardines.
The news of tuna stocks in Port Lincoln attracted investors and seafarers far and wide. Brothers Joe and Mick Puglisi were among the first to move, relocating their boat, the San Michael, from Ulladulla in southern NSW to Port Lincoln in 1960. They were followed by a wave of European migrants seeking opportunity in the new world.
The Port Lincoln tuna fishery "Godfathers" include not only the Puglisi's, but Hagen Stehr, Sam Marin, Mario Valcic, Tony Santic (owner of famous racehorse Makabe Diva and olympic weightlifting champion Dean Lukin's father, Dinko Lukin. These industry "Godfathers" still gather at a local café, affectionately known as "The Cappuccino Club," where they've maintained their friendships and celebrated their heritage for over 60 years. Their combined wealth is estimated to be over a billion dollars.
The tuna industry in Port Lincoln has undergone a dramatic transformation since the chaotic days of tuna poling and seine netting. The near-collapse of the Southern Bluefin Tuna population in the 1980s prompted the tuna barons to revamp their methods. Gone are the days of wild fishing; instead, they now catch juvenile tuna and tow them to specially designed floating pens in Boston Bay. This innovative approach has led to a massive aquaculture industry, where the tuna are fed and grown in controlled environments. It's a far more sustainable method that has become a cornerstone of Port Lincoln's economy, supporting a significant portion of the local population. The industry's evolution has ensured the tuna stocks' long-term viability and cemented Port Lincoln's reputation as a hub for sustainable seafood production.
But Port Lincoln's thriving economy extends far beyond tuna. There's a virtual plethora of valuable seafood species readily available including whiting, snapper, calamari, crayfish, oysters, abalone, mussels, crabs, and deep-sea trawl species. The town is also a hub for aquaculture farming, with yellowtail kingfish and Southern Bluefin Tuna being just two of the many species farmed in the area. Given its impressive seafood production, Port Lincoln's title as the "Seafood Capital of Australia" is well-deserved.
More Than Just Fishing
The port is a bustling hub that services a vast region of the Eyre Peninsula, handling grain, lamb, wool, and beef exports. With one of Australia's highest concentrations of millionaires per capita, it's no surprise that property development is a significant contributor to the local economy.
For boaties and fishos, flying into Port Lincoln is like unwrapping a tantalising gift. The town's stunning coastline offers miles of inshore reefs, islands, and sheltered waters to explore, with the majesty of the Southern Ocean waiting just offshore. It's a paradise for those who love the water, but if you want to tow a boat, it's a long drive from anywhere! Adelaide is over 650km away and takes around seven hours to drive. Keen fisho's will find it hard to drive past angling hot sports like Whyalla and Arno Bay but when you finally get to Port Lincoln its worth the effort.
There are large marinas, well-serviced ramps and extensive waterside properties and moorings available to boats of all shapes, sizes and styles. This is the home of the largest commercial fleet in the country and hence provides a full array of professional maritime services. For a nostalgic romp, you can’t miss the Axel Stenross Maritime Museum, where you will just marvel at the nautical history that put Port Lincoln on the map, and keeps it there. You can even chat to the old seadogs constantly restoring beautiful luggers, whalers and ketches, as well as finished presentations of some of our earliest handcrafted vessels and the hands and equipment that filled them.
However, tourism is the major attraction. The salt water in our veins gets us all pumped with adventure from diving with great white sharks, frolicking with the playful sea lions, both game and sportsfishing safari’s, the surf and all its joys, and not to mention the massive inshore bays and inlets of the Spencer Gulf, Boston Bay and nearby Coffin Bay that simply whet our angling senses.
When we finally tire of life at sea, there is plenty to keep us enthralled on land. There are beautiful National Parks, 4WD treks across the steep sand dunes, walking trails and lookouts, ecotourism, animal parks or even a gentle stroll (or pub crawl) along the beautiful waterfront town under the ever-watchful gaze of the statue of the famous locally owned racehorse Makybe Diva. I have vowed that one day, I will travel the entire Eyre Peninsula Seafood Trail! Oh my, I can just feel the gout pangs already from the plethora of local delicacies served at the local wineries, restaurants, cafés, pubs, as well as specialist seafood outlets such as Austar Seafood Warehouse, Port Lincoln Smokehouse and The Fresh Fish Place.
We were treated yet again to the hospitality of the Boston Bay Winery, and entertained by its entrepreneurial and entertaining owner Tony Ford who not only served us up a great selection of three varieties of local oysters, kingfish strait from the water, prawns, and other seafood delights, but he also specialises in the flavor filled meats of the region including a bountiful rib eye that just melted an explosion of flavor in the mouth. “Fordy” is quite a character, and a Google search will find some of his fun-filled exploits sending up mainstream cooking shows and promoting the local produce.
Boston Bay Winery is a multi-award winner with both its reds and whites. However, it's the Great White Sauvignon Blanc that really puts a smile on my face. This wine has a distinctive salt air sharpness, which is no surprise given Fordy's claim that his vineyard is the closest to the ocean of any Australian winery. As he poured another glass, Fordy chuckled, "It's so close to the sea, we have to prune the grapevines at low tide!" His colourful character and infectious enthusiasm only added to the charm of the wine.
The thing that will keep you dreaming of Port Lincoln is the hospitality of the locals. We were greeted with smiles and friendship wherever we travelled both with and without our cameras. There is a huge selection of accommodation from roughing it camping in the Lincoln National Park, to all manner of services from beautiful camping villages through to five-star luxury.
We were treated to a fantastic stay thanks to the Forster family, who run the Port Lincoln YHA – a hostel that's far more than your average backpackers. The accommodation options range from shared bunk rooms to fully equipped motel-style rooms, ensuring there's something for everyone. But what really sets the YHA apart is the shared relaxation area, where you can meet and mingle with a diverse bunch of locals and international travellers. Old mate Robert Forster is usually holding court, swapping stories with a colourful cast of characters drawn to Port Lincoln's global reputation. It's the perfect spot to make new friends and soak up the atmosphere. Robert cooked the whole hostel a magnificent seafood paella one night, and it was simply delicious! If you can ever prompt him to let you sample his secret recipe for Bluefin tuna, you will be in awe forever! (Note - Robert has since started the Port Lincoln Smokehouse)
Swimming with Great White Sharks
Swimming with great white sharks is a high priority on life’s bucket list. For me, it was the thrill of a lifetime. Just imagine getting up close and personal with these massive, prehistoric, and awe inspiring creatures in their own environment. It makes for one of our planet's greatest experiences in raw natural beauty, and savagery. Their commanding presence truly does bewitch you until they explode in bursts of barbarous ferocity. They glide through their underwater domain with an air of primal supremacy, lulling you with their imposing sovereignty and rhythmic, almost hypnotising motion.
Yet the scene changes all so quickly as the mighty beast unleashes with unfurled brutality in a terrifying display of monstrous strength and power that leaves you gasping from primeval gore. This is a true apex predator in the marine circle of life. To have the opportunity to come face to face with such a beast in their own environment, thanks to Port Lincoln's Shark Cave Diving with Calypso Star Charters, is an experience that will live with you forever.
Calypso Star Charters are hands-down one of the most professional operations I've ever had the pleasure of dealing with. Their reputation precedes them, and it's clear why they're a favourite among international visitors. Their equipment is top-notch, their service is impeccable, and their presentation is flawless. The staff are not only well-qualified but also genuinely personable, taking charge and catering to your every need with a friendly and understanding attitude that puts you at ease. It always amazes me that the international tourists constantly outnumber the Aussies. So often, we don’t recognise the value of our own country and its magnificent assets.
It is a long day’s charter that meets often before sunrise to board Calypso Star 2, a 65’ Conquest Wide body with its 6.2m beam and C32 Caterpillar 1400hp 32 litre V12 diesel. She’s an ex-cray boat from Western Australia’s Jurian Bay that has undergone an extensive refit with a high-capacity galley, hot water showers, Sea Tamer stabiliser and of course a fully engineered aluminium shark cage that is strong enough to withstand the stampede of a rampaging shark.
Time slips by quickly with anxious anticipation on the 2.5-hour journey leaving Boston Bay on a course for the Neptune Islands, some 70-odd kilometres from port. The catering for breakfast and lunch is superb, leading many to think it is a gourmet celebration of their last supper!
The Neptune Islands are situated directly in line with the middle of the Spencer Gulf, but firmly planted in the Southern Ocean. Shark Bay on the Northern Neptunes is the only registered spot in Australia where you can experience cage diving with great whites, and it's a wildly successful operation. It's not uncommon for three to five great whites to visit the cage at once, accompanied by other species like bronze whalers, threshers, and yellowtail kingfish, all drawn in by the shark berley (that's fish offal, not human!). The Neptunes are host to huge colonies of New Zealand Fur Seals and Australian Sea Lions, which naturally attract the apex predators like bees to honey.
Once the cage is in position and the crew are briefed, it usually doesn't take long to chum up a shark or two. You don't need any certification or experience to dive, but being familiar with snorkelling or SCUBA diving certainly helps. As you slip into the cage with up to five others, you'll feel your heart rate and pulse racing as you breathe deeply from the hookah manifold. Climbing into the cage is relatively easy, with an entry point at the top that extends about 300mm out of the water. While it's accessible for most age groups, it can be overwhelming for some – but you're free to climb out at any time to collect yourself. There's enough room at the top of the cage to come up for air or clear your mask, giving you a chance to take a deep breath and process the sheer intensity of the experience.
The sharks glide effortlessly past you, their gaze lingering on their potential prey. Time seems to stand still as they cruise by, their movements almost serene. But the calm is shattered when the deckhands start throwing out large baits on ropes, and the sharks erupt. As the deckies reel in the baits, the sharks give chase, their powerful bodies barreling towards the cage like ravenous predators. This is when you get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures, their mouths wide open in anticipation of a feed. Sometimes they'll crash into the cage right in front of you, sending shockwaves through the water.
In fact, my intrepid partner, Baz demanded to see the shark cage welders certificates before he would even climb in!
I was fortunate enough to witness the arrival of "Big Momma" on my first trip to the Neptunes. She burst out of the abyss in a lightning-fast attack on a bait, her massive body propelling itself towards the surface like a tomahawk missile. The whole thing was over in an instant, leaving me with an unforgettable memory that will stay with me forever. It drove home the old adage – the shark to worry about is the one you don't see coming.
The long trip back to port lends itself to tales of the day, more food, and a few cold frothy drinks. It is terrific to hear the stories from the international and local contingents about their homes, their travels, their pasts, and their expectations of the future. Most, however, just want to reflect on their own individual takes on the day's amazing shark dive experience. It truly is a thrill of a lifetime.
Swimming with Sea Lions
The Port Lincoln experience just keeps getting better – next up is a half-day tour on a sleek twin-hull vessel, where you'll free dive with wild sea lions on a secluded beach. The tour takes you across Boston Bay, around Cape Donnington, and through the stunning coastline of the Lincoln National Park. You'll pass by historic sites dating back to Matthew Flinders, spotting plenty of wildlife and scenic views along the way.
The sea lions congregate in a nursery area on Hopkins Island, a picturesque spot with white sandy beaches and rocky outcrops. After mooring offshore, you'll hop into a small tender and head into the shallows after donning a wetsuit, mask, and snorkel. Let's just say I didn't exactly ace the free diving part – without flippers, in fact I thrashed around like a cork, providing endless entertainment for the sea lions.
These gorgeous creatures are incredibly playful and inquisitive, swimming up to you with total trust and affection. They'll even invite you to play, standing on the bottom of the ocean floor and doing cartwheels around you as you bob along, mesmerized by the experience. One thing I learned the hard way is that you should do the sea lion dive before swimming with sharks, not after. Diving with sharks the day before left me with a lingering undercurrent of thoughts about those massive predators swimming free in the same ocean. Trust me, you want to enjoy the sea lions without any distractions!
Port Lincoln is More Than Just a Quick Visit
Don't think that a few days in Port Lincoln will be enough to enjoy all of its features and splendour. A week is barely minimal! The hospitality of the locals is simply unsurpassed, and the professionalism of all venues and tour operations is premium, especially the Swim with Sharks and Swim with Sea Lions. There was also a Swim with Tuna operation which has since relocated to Victor Harbour.
You can fly in from Adelaide, catch a bus or preferably tow (or drive) your own craft. But do yourself a favour and book a trip to Port Lincoln. If there’s a single scrap of salt water in your veins, you’ll simply love it!
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