Eden: A True Jewel in the Crown of Coastal NSW

I find it hard to imagine a more beautiful region than the "Sapphire Coast" in southern NSW. Its deep blue, crystal clear waters lap onto miles of clean white sandy beaches with ochre and blackened headlands rising to the thick forests of the Great Dividing Range.

Whilst you would imagine that Eden was perhaps named after the biblical garden, in reality, it was in honour of George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland, the British Secretary for the Colonies. This little coastal town has a long history of prosperity and growth, followed by boom to bust with the rise and fall of its whaling, fishing, forestry, grazing, and gold rush heritage.

Eden is situated almost equally between Melbourne and Sydney and boasts the southern hemisphere's third-largest deep water port. I like to think that it is the furthest distance from both State Capitals that gives it more appeal; however, it is only 2.5 hours from Canberra. During Federation, Eden was considered as a site for our capital city, but politics inevitably had its wicked way on that ideal - thankfully, I say!

A Safe Haven for Boaters and Tourists

Today, Eden seems to drift along at its own pace. The heady and romantic days of the commercial whaling and tuna industries are now a drawcard for tourism. There's a bustle afoot with harbour development that caters to the cruise liners visiting the quaint little coastal township. With it, Eden's 3000+ residents are hoping for another period of financial influx after losing much of its commercial fishing fleet and processing plant some years ago. The town has adapted to the changes with growth in tourism, aquaculture and even cottage industries such as the multi-award-winning Eden Smokehouse.

Eden is a perfect destination for the travelling boat owner. Its range of terrestrial attractions is only shadowed by the nautical appeal. Whilst I did a trailer trip on our last tour, Eden is also a magnificent deep water haven and safe anchorage for coastal navigators. It is the last port of call for those sailing southward before the long trek back into Victorian waters. It is far more appealing than Merimbula and Bermagui's often treacherous bar entrances to the north. Many storm-battered Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race entrants have taken haven in the safety of the natural harbour on Twofold Bay.

For a trailer boat owner, Eden is simply a Mecca. There's a terrific four-lane boat ramp with a floating jetty and break wall at Quarantine Bay just south of the main township. On a calm day, it provides immediate seaward access to all manner of fishing, diving, sailing, and even water sports options.

Fishing and Diving on the Far South Coast

You can drift for flatties, squid, and gummy sharks almost immediately after leaving the launching area. There's all manner of reef species including snapper, morwong, luderick, drummer, trevally, sweep, leatherjacket, snook, pike, blue groper, gurnard and of course the prized yellowtail kingfish on the coastal reefs. Behind the washes are XXOS Australian salmon and tailor with the occasional bream, tarwhine and sand whiting thrown in on the beaches. Don't be surprised if suddenly you encounter a battle from one of the prized mulloway that will often school up in large numbers in the bay.

The pelagic action can be intense! Eden has a long history of tuna fishing, both commercially and recreationally. It was once a major centre for tuna poleing with Yellowfin, Bluefin and the occasional Big Eye tuna in season. The albacore or “chicken of the sea” out wide with their speedy striped cousins, the striped tuna in abundance, plus bonito that mostly prefer the inshore washes. Eden waters are home to five billfish species, including striped, black and blue marlin, short-billed spearfish and the mighty broadbill swordfish. There are all manner of sharks, including mako, threshers, tigers and a wide variety of whalers, and now and then, a monster Great White will cast its devilish eye on you. You may also find mahi-mahi (dolphin fish) and even the occasional wahoo when the warm currents flow.

Eden is a terrific place to explore the abyss for the mighty Broadbill Swordfish. Other target species, including Blue Eye Trevalla, Hapuka, gemfish, and the succulent ling, are also available.

A Diving Dreamland 

Eden is simply a diver's dreamland. The rocky headlands and plunging drop-offs provide some of the most spectacular diving territory in the world. If you happen to be a hunter/gatherer, there are abundant targets for a succulent feed, including the prized abalone, crayfish, kingfish and snapper. Spearfishers revel in the opportunity to hunt prime pelagic targets like the marlin and tuna that often travel the inshore canyons. The temperate waters host a wide variety of other underwater experiences, including immense kelp forests and a huge diversity of marine life, with the colourful anemone fish and other species more often found in tropical climates.

Sweetwater Dreaming

But there's much more to Eden than the offshore wonderland. This is the realm of sweetwater attraction with abundant tributaries, backwaters, coves, inlets, estuaries, rivers and lakes. The estuaries in easy range include Wagonga Inlet, Wallaga, Wapengo, Cuttagee, Wallagoot, Merimbula, Pambula and Mallacoota Lakes. The rivers and creeks include the Murrah, Bunga, Bega, Bermagui, Towomba, Yokawa, Merrica, Thurra, Kiah, Genoa, Wallagaraugh and Mueller that are all gems in their own just waiting to be discovered by either powered or paddled water craft.

These wonderful waterways all feed from the pristine headwaters of the Great Dividing Range, with snow country not that far away. The lower estuaries are havens for all the usual estuary dwellers, including bream, whiting, garfish, flathead, trevally, luderick and mullet, but the mighty mulloway are also a prized target. These waters hold large populations of estuary perch, sometimes surprisingly large snapper, and the headwaters are prime habitats for a good stock of the wily Australian wild bass. For those keen on trying their hand in a stocked impoundment, Brogo Dam, the region's premier bass-fishing hot spot, is only an hour up the road.

Land-based visitors won't miss any of the action around Eden. Beach and rock fishing are simply on tap, with everything from land-based game fishing platforms such as the Pulpit Rock on Green Cape to long expanses of golden sand beaches with ideal gutters for surf fishing, the bottom stretches of sand banks for popping and plastics, plus plenty of headlands and rocky platforms for rock hoppers.

Thar She Blows - Rusho!!!

The Sapphire Coast is known as the ‘humpback highway,’ and every year between September and November, Eden plays host to thousands of humpbacks heading home to Antarctica. It's not just the mighty humpbacks, either. Other common whale species include Minke, Sei, Sperm, Fin, Southern Right, Blue, and even killer whales or Orcas.

We were treated to the hospitality of Lana and Brad Wills on “Cat Ballou”, Eden's premier whale watching charter, to enjoy the sights of the mighty humpbacks playing, feeding, broaching and tail slapping whilst they frolicked in the bay not far from port. The whales genuinely seemed to welcome our presence, often coming right up to the boat seemingly to interact with its thrilled passengers. It's not only the whales on show. Eden has a large population of dolphins and seals that regularly come out to play, and to top off the trip, you will be treated to a tour of the town and coast from the comfort of a very stable, powered catamaran.

Our whaling heritage is one of our nation's foundations and a major drawcard for Eden. There are a million tales of the lives of the hunters and their seafaring hardships. Perhaps the best example of the relationship between man and beast is the story of Old Tom the Orca and his herd who for many years rounded up the humpbacks in Twofold Bay to help the whalers harpoon their mammoth prey from their relatively tiny dory's. Old Tom would actually swim right up to the Davidson Whaling Station at Kiah Inlet and flap around to inform the whalers that his herd was holding their prey. He would often tow the boats to the action or grab a line to help slow a plunging harpooned beast. The Orcas' reward was the tongues and lips of the kill, a practice known as the "Law of the Tongue."

This unique relationship remained for many years until Old Tom died in 1930. His skeleton is on show in the Eden Whale Museum and must-see on your next visit. The museum is a wonderful attraction that tells the rich history of the entire region. It has some excellent displays of the early years with the tools, tales, and trinkets of our nautical past and traditional owners. You can often watch the whales at play in the bay from the observation deck right in front of the museum. Whaling declined in the 1920s and ended around 1930 in Eden, with whale oil and products becoming a less valuable commodity.

Catch a Fresh Feed at Snug Cove

Any visit to Eden isn't complete without some time to explore the port at Snug Cove. Eden still operates a fleet of commercial boats, including deep-sea trawlers, long liners, prawn boats, and more. A walk along the three jetties is a must, where you will often see boats unloading their prized catches and perhaps grab a feed of fresh mussels or prawns straight off the boats—it doesn't get any fresher than that!

We arrived just in time to watch Freedom Charters return with a very happy crew that had bounced up a nice feed of snapper, morwong and nannygai along with a surprise capture of a Thresher Shark that was destined to be fresh flake for all that evening. The woodchip mill and Navy Depot are highlights on the south side of Twofold Bay, but the big tug boats and other service craft, including the Police and NSW Maritime, are all stationed in the Cove. There's plenty of work afoot with the new port facilities that cater to the demands of the larger cruise ships, so there's never a dull moment on or adjacent to the water's edge.

Snug Cove caters to its tourists very well with abundant services, shops, a café, and restaurants. Visit Stan and Michelle at the Eden Smokehouse for the best in smoked meats and marine fare including their smoked Atlantic Salmon that just gained the 2018 AFA Champion Australian Seafood Award. Still, my tip is to treat yourself to smoked garlic or chilli mussels while you're there. “Hooked On Seafood” is the local fishmonger and takeaway whose showcase reveals fresh local delicacies straight off the boats and cooked to perfection. My tip is to try the local Ling, some prawns and a couple of sea scallops – Delicious!

The Sapphire Coast also produces some of the best oysters in the world. No trip would be complete without spoiling yourself with these tasty temptations, perhaps washed down with a local Sauvignon Blanc or a beer. Would you believe we were invited to visit the Longstocking Brewery and take Captain Sponge's Oyster Tour in nearby Pambula, but we ran out of time? – Oh, the shame, but a great reason to return.

Take the kids, large and small, to the Sapphire Coast Marine Discovery Centre to learn about the oceans, coasts, and marine life. Eden's waters create a unique mix where warm waters meet colder currents, producing a variety of aquatic habitats. There are some quite good pubs, bars, and restaurants, but they've been a bit lacking since the redevelopment of Snug Cove.

A Coastal Pub with Great Food and Views

In the gold rush, there were four pubs in Eden, but now there's only one - the Great Southern Inn/Hotel- and it’s a ripper! Their slogan to remember is “That nice pub on the coast!” This is a very friendly pub with a hospitable main bar, plenty of screens to watch the footy, and a cozy open fire to warm the cockles. On a nice day, the terrace beer garden overlooking Twofold Bay is simply sensational, plus it offers a variety of accommodation upstairs at very reasonable prices.

However, the food is possibly as good, if not better, than any pub I have ever visited. The menu has all the pub favourites like parmas, schnitzels, calamari, prawns, salt and pepper squid and crumbed cutlets, and yet again, the seafood is delectable. If you're hungry, I challenge you to get around one of the largest surf and turf dishes I’ve ever seen with the most tender cut of local scotch fillet topped with seafood delights in a mornay sauce. Watch out for daily specials, though – they are a real treat at terrific prices and all served by friendly and attentive staff.

Whilst there is only one pub, there is also the Eden Fishermen's Club and the Country Club, plus many more options. Don't worry about arriving empty-handed either. Eden has a full shopping centre with a supermarket, bottle shops, art and craft, galleries, knick-knacks, handicrafts, mechanical services, fuel, bait and tackle, and even two boat shops.

Where To Stay on the Sapphire Coast?

Eden offers a full spectrum of accommodation, from 5-star luxury houses to rental houses, Airbnb, apartments, caravans, and holiday parks. I must mention the magnificent Seahorse Inn at Boydtown, which is only a minute's drive south of Eden. Boydtown was the area's original settlement, founded in 1843 by local pastoralist Benjamin Boyd. The local landmark "Ben Boyd's Tower", a stone construction used to look for whales, is near the South Head lighthouse which he commissioned and constructed from Sydney sandstone. Boyd also commissioned inns and churches, housing and store rooms, wharves and stock-yards.

Nowadays, the Seahorse Inn offers luxury accommodation and is a wonderful place for the public to enjoy the serenity of the foreshore beer garden, bar, and restaurant. It’s a lovely place to watch the sunset at the end of a full day. It seemed fitting to enjoy a lovely Irish coffee in the gardens as the evening chill arrived.

You would be hard pressed to find any better accommodation than the beautiful Eden Beachfront Holiday Park, managed by Jason and Nichole Ferguson. The park is right on the beach, five minutes south of the main township, and almost immediately adjacent to the Quarantine Bay boat launching facility and safe harbour.

The name says it all with immediate beach front accommodation from simple powered or unpowered campsites, ensuite and drive-thru caravan sites, dog friendly cabins, plus numerous levels of cabin, deluxe villa and chalet options with many on the absolute foreshore of a gorgeous white sandy beach. There's a grassy common strip just before you drop down onto the beach with plenty of barbecue facilities and seating for the whole crew to enjoy. Perhaps you would prefer the privacy of your own deck and barby? There's a ripper new combined recreation room with the facilities to cook for a large function, or maybe enjoy the cinema, pizza oven and barbeque facilities.

Jason and Nicole will bend over backwards to assist you in enjoying your Eden getaway with their small shop, firewood for contained fires, high-pressure boat wash, freezing facilities, playground, tennis and volleyball courts, jumping pillow, laundry, wifi, photocopying and other office needs. I’ve travelled Australia-wide and stayed in some terrific holiday parks, but this one takes the cake. Jason and Nicole will bend over backwards to ensure you enjoy your stay, and there's plenty of room for trailer boats!

From Sandy Shores to Ben Boyd’s Wilds

When you're finally all "beached out”, there are some fantastic forest excursions to explore. Ben Boyd National Park starts from Pambula Beach, passing around the historic Green Cape lighthouse, and stops on the coast just short of the Wonboyn Lake entrance. It features rugged coastlines dropping into the famous sapphire waters, vivid rock formations, unspoilt beaches and intriguing history.

Ben Boyd offers terrific opportunities for off-road antics, bushwalking, camping, surfing, photography, and, of course, fishing and diving. It is also teeming with natural flora and fauna. Camping is available at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee Bay, and land-based game fishing is available at the Pulpit.

If you are really keen to stretch your legs, there is the “Light to Light” walk from Ben Boyd's Tower to the Green Cape Lighthouse, the Mount Imlay Summit Walk, which climbs over 600m from Burrawang picnic area to the summit of Mount Imlay only 30 km inland, and much, much more.

Come Explore Eden

Whether you are a devoted offshore warrior, an inshore bottom bouncer, estuary cruiser, paddle boarder, kayaker, photographer, walker, naturalist or just a simple family with a trailer boat looking for a great destination, I rate Eden in the top five holiday destinations in Australia.

Ready to Set Sail? 

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Smooth sailing starts with the right boat, and a terrific destination like Eden on the New South Wales Sapphire Coast. We're here to help you find it!

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