"We're Going To Bonnie Doon!"

Who can forget those classic words of Aussie humour from the 1997 hit movie The Castle, with lead character Darryl Kerrigan (Michael Caton) and family bursting with excitement sprouting, “we’re going to Bonnie Doon!” Of course, Bonnie Doon is a small village on the northwestern extremity of Lake Eildon, a massive man-made embankment dam fed via a total catchment area of 3,885 square kilometres of Victoria’s prime Alpine region.

Eildon offers all kinds of boating, freshwater fishing, kayaking, canoeing, swimming, jet skiing, sailing, wake surfing, tow sports, and paddle boarding, as well as plenty of accommodation options, including camping.

When filled to its limits, Eildon has a capacity of 3,390,000 megalitres and covers an area of 13,832 hectares, which is six times the size of Sydney Harbour. There are over 500 kilometres of shoreline to explore and enjoy. It is ideally situated around 150 kilometres from Melbourne and is a vital inland boating and recreational destination.

The major rivers that feed Eildon include the Goulburn, Delatite, Howqua, Big, and Jamieson Rivers, with several minor tributaries stretching to some of Australia’s highest peaks and most challenging terrain. It is mostly quite a deep lake with an average of 24 metres, and at its deepest, 79 metres. The crest of the uncontrolled spillway is 288.9 metres and is approximately 1,085 metres long.

The actual impoundment is called Lake Eildon, and the township of “Eildon” is very close to the dam wall. The town verges the edge of the Eildon Pondage, a controlled spillway and favoured recreational fishing area. It temporarily stores discharged water and regulates releases downstream to minimise variations in flow. There’s no boating allowed on the pondage, but it’s a terrific site for land-based fishing and stocked regularly with trout, both large and small.

On average, 91% of the water from Lake Eildon flows downstream to the Goulburn Weir and the Waranga Basin before it is delivered to irrigators in the Goulburn Valley system. The Goulburn River eventually meets the mighty Murray River just upstream of Echuca.

Eildon is a source for a hydro-electric power station that operates during the irrigation season, generally from August to May. It may also be operated during winter and spring with flood releases and when there is high demand in Melbourne. Eildon Power Station has four turbo generators, and there’s yet another small hydro-electric station on the pondage.

A large portion of the massive reservoir is surrounded by the 27,750-hectare Lake Eildon National Park and bounded by the rural townships of Eildon and Bonnie Doon, as mentioned, plus the regional centres of Mansfield to the north, Alexandra to the south, and the quaint country villages of Howqua and Jamieson at the junction of the same-name rivers to the east.

Lake Eildon is an ideal destination for all water sports. It supports a large population of recreational houseboats, making a terrific on-water base for freshwater marine activity. The water is deep and hence generally cold, particularly throughout winter. Its mountainous position in the central highlands places it not far from the snow fields of Mount Buller; therefore, it’s a great region to enjoy an intimate life around a waterside campfire (regulations apply), lodge, or heated abode.

The region explodes with tourism in the summer months, and there is plenty of water and facilities for everyone.

The vast stretches of mountain-bound waterways are ideal for tow and wake sports, or even simply cruising throughout the myriad of backwaters, arms and rivers. Some use the waterways as a highway to reach remote campsites, and a growing number of deer hunters traverse the lake to find the dense forest habitats that border the lake. The banks are steep in most places and can be pretty muddy as the water levels rise and fall over the yellow clay; hence, boaters are advised to carry boarding planks, especially after rain or when water levels drop.  

Lake Eildon National Park

The surrounding mountains are spectacular, with peaks up to 900 metres, and sometimes snow-capped. The vegetation is mostly dry, with open eucalypt forests and areas of riparian and montane forests. The park's vegetation features a variety of eucalyptus species, including stringybarks, peppermints, red box, and candlebark. Mountain ash and blue gum are also present in certain areas. The park is home to a diverse range of native wildlife, with 34 mammal species, 89 bird species, 17 reptile species, 10 amphibian species, and three freshwater fish species documented.

Good old Darryl Kerrigan famously exclaimed, “How’s the serenity? So much serenity.” How true it is for the most part, as you can lose yourself in the expanses of the lake. There are vast stands of submerged timber surrounding many lake edges, with their ghostly remnants reaching skyward like long, devilish hands. These provide terrific habitat and shelter for the fish, particularly the native cod and yellowbelly (callop in SA). Trout and redfin also love the dead trees, and you can often find a trout or two feeding on wood grubs and other insects dropping from the decaying timber branches.

 

But beware, many of these tree branches dislodge and float away just under the surface, becoming quite an obstacle. This is particularly prevalent after a significant change in water level or a big wind blast. If you are moving amongst the dead timber, it’s all ahead slow and often with an outboard or sterndrive leg slightly tilted to avoid unseen branches that seem to grab you from beneath, surprisingly. Many years ago, I actually ran up on a tree stump; it felt like driving up a trailer, and the whole boat was suspended almost mid-air – not ideal!

Going To Town

Eildon township is a beautiful little community with a small retail hub just one street from the Goulburn River Pondage. Its permanent population is around 1000 people, but it swells dramatically during almost any weekend or holiday period. It’s a pretty little shopping centre with a central garden and car park, and it enjoys a scenic mountain backdrop. Shops include the bakery, supermarket, takeaway outlets, service station, and chemist.

Eildon has quite a large houseboat building and service industry, particularly Anchorage Houseboats, Status Luxury Houseboats, Eildon Industries and Eildon Outboard Service.

Riverside Drive runs along the grassy northern banks of the Pondage near the town centre. It is a popular spot for picnics, BBQs, and fishing, and it includes the Lions Club Rotunda, disabled persons' pier, children’s playground, and public toilets. On the other side of the pondage, along the Goulburn Valley Highway, are many other picnic grounds and fishing spots, plus a comfortable walking track surrounds the lower Eildon Pondage. Take the drive along Embankment Road, traverse the dam wall and circle the pondage – it’s a great little drive offering some terrific views.  

Immediately east of the town centre along Jerusalem Creek Road, Foggs Lookout on Mount Pinniger rises to an elevation of 543 metres and offers stunning views across the dam wall and surrounding waterway. Six 220,000-volt power lines stretch over two kilometres across the lake to Mount Enterprise, forming the longest single span in the Southern Hemisphere. Dale Kerrigan from The Castle said, “Dad, he reckons powerlines are a reminder of man's ability to generate electricity.”

The Victorian Fisheries Authority breeds trout and native fish for stocking throughout the State at the nearby Snobs Creek Hatchery. Tours are highly recommended when available. There are also several exceptional holiday parks throughout the entire region, including on the Back Eildon Rd and nearby Thornton. Note the Thornton butcher has an excellent range of meat and runs a smokehouse for some cured delicacies.

The beautiful Taylor Bay is north east of Eildon. It is a pretty populated area with its own identity, including many barbecue barges moored on the lakeside. There are numerous settlements of this type all around the lake, including the beautiful Goughs Bay, Howqua and Jamieson Inlets, Burnt Creek Lodge and the Mansfield Country Resort, Lakehouse and Campground, Macs Cove, and of course heading up to the famous Bonnie Doon to the north.

Bonnie Doon township was established in the mid-1800s when gold was discovered in the region. Lake Eildon's construction in the 1950s flooded much of Bonnie Doon's original town. Parts of the township were relocated to higher ground, whilst others were flooded, including the original bridge. Bonnie Doon is particularly popular with tow and wake boaties with bankside boat ramps both north and south. Dale Kerrigan said, “If there is one thing dad loved more than serenity, it was a two-stroke engine of full throttle!” and there’s plenty of horsepower ringing through the valley during the summer when the water sports come alive!

They call Bonnie Doon the Gateway to the high country. It is an ideal base for bushwalkers, mountain and trail bike riders, and off-road 4X4 adventurers. It is also very popular with motorcycle and car clubs. Facilities include a hotel, motels and a full range of accommodation, including a caravan park, a service station and a café. It is worth noting that water levels can get very low at Bonnie Doon, particularly during drought, and at the peak of the irrigation system, when the lake can, in fact, dry right out at the township. However, being such a large lake, there is always good water just around the corner. There are substitute boat ramps close at hand, but again, watch out for those branches and stumps that have a habit of surprising the unwary boat driver.

Marinas

South east of the Eildon township is the beautiful Jerusalem Creek with its large harbour full of houseboats plus public boat ramps, the popular Cafe 501 Bar & Grill, general store, waterside fuel, and if you would like a taste of staying on the water, try a floating “boatel” apartment with a 24/7 view and fishing from the deck.

Just a bit further south, but slightly upstream in the Jerusalem Creek Arm is the Darlingford Waters Boat Club, offering perhaps the most sheltered marina berths on the Lake. It is tucked well into the “Jews Creek” arm and fed constantly by freshwater flow. This friendly “club” offers some terrific boating facilities and wide, spacious corridors to their stable moorings.

Close to the township of Eildon is the largest inland Boat Club in Australia, the Eildon Boat Club. This popular and well-appointed facility offers purpose-built moorings for over 400 houseboats and is protected by a large wavebreaker and surrounding hills.

The Boat Club features a very nice clubhouse overlooking the lake. It incorporates seating for up to 180 patrons and a large outdoor deck when conditions allow. There’s also an extensive menu, bar, and wine list.

The Eildon Boat Club offers every possible facility for boat and houseboat owners, including slipping and undercover maintenance facilities, powered work jetties, houseboat wash down bay, launching ramps, car and trailer parking, houseboat mooring, breakdown assist, club account facilities and fuel.

Nearby, the Lake Eildon Marina & Houseboat hire offers a further 250 houseboat berths in a friendly, breakwater-protected facility that includes the popular Aqua Bar & Café, fuel & ice sales and comprehensive houseboat slipping facilities, houseboat hire, security gates, video surveillance, sewerage pump out facility, and is open 7 days a week. If you are in the market for a new or second-hand houseboat, power, paddle, sail craft, or even PWC, call in on the friendly Mike Dalmau at High Country Houseboat Sales located on the ground floor of the clubhouse.  Mike is a local identity whose knowledge of the region is only bettered by a huge personality and willingness to assist newcomers and old hands alike.

Boat Ramps

Three public ramps are available in the Eildon township area and at Kennedy Point, Bonnie Doon, Hutchinson’s Road, Goughs Bay and Jamieson. When the lake is at low levels, public boat access becomes restricted to only a few formed concrete ramps, mainly in the Eildon area, including Coller Bay, Eildon Alliance Boat Ramp (at Point Dethridge), Jerusalem Creek and Goughs Bay. In some places around the lake, boats are often launched away from designated boat ramps and cars are parked on the lake bed. Parking away from designated parking areas can significantly impact the lake bed and the vegetation. Parking, even at designated boat ramps, becomes limited when the lake exceeds 80% capacity.

Camping Facilities

With its massive shoreline length and river frontages, the Eildon area offers camping facilities for all tastes, from luxury holiday parks to simple lakeside clearings, both with and without facilities. Some popular camps include the well-equipped Devils Cove, Candlebark and Lakeside Campgrounds or the more basic Mountaineer, O’Toole Flat, Coopers Point, Taylors Creek or Jerusalem Creek Campground.

Accommodation

Lake Eildon and its surrounding townships are blessed with every kind of accommodation from upmarket five-star luxuries, houses, AirBnB, units, flats and holiday parks to many holiday park opportunities, from the big chain parks to small, privately managed offerings. Perhaps you would prefer a mooring in one of the marinas or a secluded sweetwater cove. For an alternative, check out the farm stays, resorts and luxurious bed and breakfasts.

Regulations - Lake Eildon National Park

The managers of Goulburn-Murray Water wish to remind us that fires and camping are not permitted in any area around Lake Eildon, except in the designated camping areas.  Unregulated campfires are not only a potential hazard for bushfires, but also pose a risk to water quality, as does discarded rubbish from camping activities. To minimise these impacts, Parks Victoria provides defined areas where camping and fires are permitted.

One key management issue is regulating effluent. To prevent the risk of water pollution, strict rules regarding sanitation must be observed. All houseboats must have sewage holding tanks and be licensed by Goulburn-Murray Water.

Boating regulations for Lake Eildon include a five-knot speed restriction within 50 metres of the water’s edge, swimmers, and fixed or floating structures in or on the water. Goulburn-Murray Water can provide a complete list of regulations and management plans.

Fishing - Explore Lake Eildon and its Tributaries

Dale Kerrigan also said, “Dad reckoned that fishing was 10% brain and 95% muscle, and the rest was just good luck!” If you are keen on catching a trophy freshwater species, Eildon is an excellent place. Eildon and its surrounding waters have a range of conditions that will appeal to all types of anglers. There’s fly-flicking, lure-casting, float-fishing, trolling, or simply soaking bait.

The available species include trout, redfin, yellowbelly and some exceptional Murray cod, and all are available for boat and land-based anglers.  Unfortunately, the excitement of a solid hook-up may be a little short-lived when you inevitably find yourself connected to one of the pesky European carp that inhabit the region. Yet there is so much more than just fishing, and the kids don’t mind the carp – in fact, they actually put up a good fight.

There is no closed season for fishing on Lake Eildon and Eildon Pondage (which are open all year round); however, there is a closed season for trout fishing in the rivers, including the Goulburn River.

The entire region is a fly fishing Mecca, especially the rivers and tributaries and the highly productive pondage. The nearby Goulburn Valley Fly Fishing Centre at Thornton has activities for all standards, including beginners' fly tying, river rafting, and extended fly fishing tours.

You can cast all manner of lures, including spinnerbaits, surface spinners, blade spinners, bibbed lures, stick baits, soft plastics, blades, and jointed claws, at the Eildon piscatorial residents. Some old favourites include Tassie Devils, Celta’s, and bibbed lures like the Stump Jumpers and Rapala CD5’s.

If you're happy bait fishing, you can try a worm, maggot (gent), yabby, or mudeye (dragonfly larvae) under a quill or bubble float, drift a local grasshopper down a gentle stream, or drown a weighted bait, including a bardy grub, for a cod.

If you’re looking for an easy but successful method for inexperienced or young anglers, try some artificial bait such as Gulp or Powerbait, or maybe even a couple of corn kernels on the hook. You just may be pleasantly surprised.

Trolling can be an art form, from simply towing lures, especially around the dead trees, to incorporating lead lines, downriggers and paravanes to get the lures to the depths. Many still use flashy attractors such as the Ford Fenders and Cow Bells to attract an inquisitive trout to a lure.  You can bob for redfin around the stumps, or spin enormous lures for the huge Goodoo (Murray Cod) that love the lake environment.

For the best advice on what’s biting, call in and chat at the Eildon Bait & Tackle (Eildon Shopping Centre), where you will find a great range of fishing gear. Remember, you may also need a Recreational Fishing License (RFL). Don’t forget Darryl’s quote if you catch that fish of a lifetime, “This is going straight to the pool room!!”

Eildon and its surroundings offer a plethora of experiences in God’s own country. Autumn is visually spectacular, but every season has its own character. There are award-winning vineyards, brasseries, bric-a-brac, antiques, magnificent country pubs and restaurants, bakeries, waterfalls, lookouts, wildlife, microbreweries and distilleries, and a fantastic variety of delicious produce.

You may wish to join in on all the excitement, or enjoy Darryl’s serenity – it’s all on offer at Eildon!

 

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